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TETRAx

MikeRotchHertz

New Member
Messages
12
View attachment 1357
As promised, glamour shots. Boy this boxwood model feels even more well built than my original basic one. Got it up and running last night and performing just as good as my original one :)
Awesome that you finally got it. I noticed the 510 connector wood on yours is different from the box which is kind of unique. Both my pieces of wood were mahogany.
 
MikeRotchHertz,

MikeRotchHertz

New Member
Messages
12
That is worth some cool points. Mine has the same cable colors and your wood looks mahogany too. I bet it was from the same piece of wood. That makes us like bud brothers or something
 

dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
@funkyjunky

I followed your video and made the pin stick out a bit more after pulling out and compressing the insulation.

However, the resistance read by my P80 is still between 0.28 and 0.30, which is way higher than the 0.217 in the calibration paper:


What could be wrong?

Thanks
 
dimmusp,

1nd3cEnt

Active Member
Messages
26
Location
Xibalba
the resistance read by my P80 is still between 0.28 and 0.30, which is way higher than the 0.217 in the calibration paper:
Dude, can you flash another mod with the latest Tubo firmware to make certain your P80 mod is not faulty?
 
1nd3cEnt,

dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
Dude, can you flash another mod with the latest Tubo firmware to make certain your P80 mod is not faulty?
Nope, it's the only mod I have.

It's not completely broken though, if I raise the resistance in the Coils screen the TETRAx works. It's just that it's very strange that it's so different from what @funkyjunky measured.

Also, when I use it sometimes the temperature shows crazy values (like 500 C or something) for a moment and then goes back to normal.

Edit: Are there any newer single battery mods supported by the Tubo firmware? I'd rather not get one with two or three batteries due to the weight, lower efficiency per cell, and having to buy more batteries.
 
dimmusp,

1nd3cEnt

Active Member
Messages
26
Location
Xibalba
the resistance read by my P80 is still between 0.28 and 0.30, which is way higher than the 0.217 in the calibration paper
The gradient between these R values - 0.217 to 0.30 ohms - is way too large. The highest temp my X reaches is around 460F in Warmup mode only, so 500C is very high as well. Now that you have secured the contact between the 510 connector & the mod means that the contact issue can be ruled out as the problem. The complication rn is that you cannot completely rule out a potentially faulty P80 mod unless you try another mod with Tubo fw.

Also your photo 4 above that shows 'NewCoil 0.28 ohms right, SameCoil 0.21 ohms left' is utterly mystifying. The Tetra is a 4 coil heater, & each coil has its own resistance/R, so presumably the tagged R value is the mean value of the 4 resistances, so maybe that is why those readouts are so different?
Are there any newer single battery mods supported by the Tubo firmware?
I do not use a single battery mod. I am using the Cuboid 200w (3x18650) mod & I am waiting on a Wismec RX Gen3 Dual (2x18650) mod as a backup bc these low end, cheap, non-DNA mods can be problematic & just fail for no apparent reason. Wish I could be more helpful.
 
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1nd3cEnt,

dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
Also your photo 4 above that shows 'NewCoil 0.28 ohms right, SameCoil 0.21 ohms left' is utterly mystifying. The Tetra is a 4 coil heater, & each coil has its own resistance/R, so presumably the tagged R value is the mean value of the 4 resistances, so maybe that is why those readouts are so different?
I think that's just a misunderstanding. AFAIK it means that you should press the left button to keep the old resistance of 0.21 (because it's the "same coil") or the right button to change it to 0.28 (because it's a "new coil").
 
dimmusp,

1nd3cEnt

Active Member
Messages
26
Location
Xibalba
I think that's just a misunderstanding.
Ok, that makes sense now. Actually I have never seen that option window before, even though my mod is running the latest fw, 191225-tubomyevic, & I have changed R & TCR many times.
 
1nd3cEnt,

funkyjunky

lamart.ch
Manufacturer
Messages
20
hello,

you need to set menu>coiils>manage>Check to NO, per the quickstart guide, and you will never see the question for a new coil again.

also it seems to me as you are reading new resistances when your device is hot. the resistance does change when the metal gets hot and only represents a comparable number when the device is completely cooled off (1 hour no usage). so its normal that if you reread the resistance while high that it will display 0.300 from the 0.21 locked resistance.

I ended up raising it from the default 0.217 all the way up to 0.227 (5 steps of raising it by two clicks). Now it produces visible vapor at around 190-195 C. Is that the expected temp for visible vapor?

Thanks
I ended up setting the resistance to 0.233 (versus the 0.217 in the paper that came with my TETRAx). With that, I see vapor being produced starting at 195-200 C.

Is it normal for the correct resistance to be so much higher than the factory spec?

BTW, my throat still gets pretty sore after a session with the TETRAx + spiked bent stem. My wife also coughs a lot if she takes a few big hits. Is that also common?

Thanks
sounds to me as if your tetrax is working correctly at the 0.233 resistance.

also mind that the unit does not supply the display temperature in on demand mode right away as the glass heater is robbing heat for the first one or two hits and only then the device will supply the set temperature. to compensate you can use warmup mode (check if your coils are glowing, if so you are too high with resistance) or start at higher temperature for the first two hits.
so from the distance it might even that your device is now running too hot. i do calibrate on p80s as well so the handed out resistance should be close. other mods might need raising of the values as i just added in the online manual: https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=85_82

and since you are new to the heater: tubo heaters like when there is high airflow and a lot of air passing through. so try inhaling at a faster rate and taking big hits, then its really able to transfer the heat by convection to your material.
 

dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
hello,

you need to set menu>coiils>manage>Check to NO, per the quickstart guide, and you will never see the question for a new coil again.

also it seems to me as you are reading new resistances when your device is hot. the resistance does change when the metal gets hot and only represents a comparable number when the device is completely cooled off (1 hour no usage). so its normal that if you reread the resistance while high that it will display 0.300 from the 0.21 locked resistance.




sounds to me as if your tetrax is working correctly at the 0.233 resistance.

also mind that the unit does not supply the display temperature in on demand mode right away as the glass heater is robbing heat for the first one or two hits and only then the device will supply the set temperature. to compensate you can use warmup mode (check if your coils are glowing, if so you are too high with resistance) or start at higher temperature for the first two hits.
so from the distance it might even that your device is now running too hot. i do calibrate on p80s as well so the handed out resistance should be close. other mods might need raising of the values as i just added in the online manual: https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=85_82

and since you are new to the heater: tubo heaters like when there is high airflow and a lot of air passing through. so try inhaling at a faster rate and taking big hits, then its really able to transfer the heat by convection to your material.
Thanks for getting back to me with all that information :)

I tried after letting the vape sit overnight and the resistance reported by the mod was the same, so it's not that I'm heating it up.

Also, I know that I should leave the resistance set with the lock icon so it asks me every time, but for these tests I didn't on purpose so that it shows me what resistance it thinks the coils have without starting to heat them up.

Any other ideas? Thanks
 
dimmusp,

funkyjunky

lamart.ch
Manufacturer
Messages
20
what exact resistance did it read in the morning? you can let the device reread the resistance if you are in menu>coils>manage at line TUBO when holding down the firebutton instead of having check set to YES.

you can try cleaning your contacts with isopropyl alcohol and let the device reread the resistance.

so just to be clear, your unit worked at 0.233 and then suddenly stopped working? or how exactly did you end up raising the resistance to 0.28? what is the resistance you have when you can use the device?

generally, if you find a resistance that works, so be it. as said differnet units (even same model) read the resistance differently. in veryvery rare cases the resistance shifted once on a heater and stayed functional. if thats your case then thats good and you should use it at the setting that works for your combination. if you keep needing to increase the resistance for it to work something is up and i would need to see for where the contact issue is happening and maybe replace whats necessary.
 
funkyjunky,
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GoldenBud

Well-known Member
Messages
66
However, the resistance read by my P80 is still between 0.28 and 0.30, which is way higher than the 0.217 in the calibration paper:
the same happend to me, my TUBOx's paper said 0.172 and the mod thought it should be something like 0.211.
I found that 0.176 works the best for my mod, and locked it in the settings (wismec rx gen3) . Changed Check to NO in settings.
I guess the reason for that as said because each mod can read it abit different.
 
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MikeRotchHertz

New Member
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12
Mine was like 0.02 ohms more than the labeled, but it also varies on multiple mods so do whatever works best for you. I try to adjust mine until I get the coils barely red at around 250-260C which translates well to me when I use 190-220.

Here's my floral engraved mahogany. I'm a huge fan.
 

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dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
what exact resistance did it read in the morning? you can let the device reread the resistance if you are in menu>coils>manage at line TUBO when holding down the firebutton instead of having check set to YES.

you can try cleaning your contacts with isopropyl alcohol and let the device reread the resistance.

so just to be clear, your unit worked at 0.233 and then suddenly stopped working? or how exactly did you end up raising the resistance to 0.28? what is the resistance you have when you can use the device?

generally, if you find a resistance that works, so be it. as said differnet units (even same model) read the resistance differently. in veryvery rare cases the resistance shifted once on a heater and stayed functional. if thats your case then thats good and you should use it at the setting that works for your combination. if you keep needing to increase the resistance for it to work something is up and i would need to see for where the contact issue is happening and maybe replace whats necessary.
I didn't need to keep raising the resistance, 0.28 is just the resistance that the mod estimates if I let it cool down and unlock it to force it to tell me what it thinks is the right resistance.

Mine was like 0.02 ohms more than the labeled, but it also varies on multiple mods so do whatever works best for you. I try to adjust mine until I get the coils barely red at around 250-260C which translates well to me when I use 190-220.

Here's my floral engraved mahogany. I'm a huge fan.
Beautiful piece!

That's an interesting approach, estimating the resistance based on where the coils start to glow.

@funkyjunky What do you think about that method? At what temperature should they start to glow if the resistance is set right? (I know they're not supposed to glow when vaping, I only ask for calibration purposes)

Thanks
 
dimmusp,

GoldenBud

Well-known Member
Messages
66
I based it off of something I remember him saying one time on a Reddit posting about the tubox. Keep in mind we are talking barely glowing. I do it in complete darkness to make sure.
great. thanks! so 0.177 will be better for me, at 0.176 didn't glow, and now i can get more vapor from 210C.
 

dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
I based it off of something I remember him saying one time on a Reddit posting about the tubox. Keep in mind we are talking barely glowing. I do it in complete darkness to make sure.
Thanks! That's very helpful, should be included in the manual.

Can anyone recommend well-priced glass for the TETRAx from a European shop? I'd rather not wait 1-2 months from DHgate :)

Thanks
 

dimmusp

New Member
Messages
26
@funkyjunky I've noticed that my TETRAx sometimes doesn't heat up when it should.

For example, I'll set it to Cruise mode and it will show silly temperatures that fluctuate a lot (e.g., 359C, 303 C, 505C, etc.) and the power stays at 0.9 W or so. You can tell it's not just the display because the vapor won't feel hot enough and no visible clouds are produced.

I get better results using it on-demand (pressing the button so if shows "PUFF") , but even then I sometimes have to release and press the button again for it to really heat. Otherwise it might say it's near the target temperature (e.g., 195 C) but the power will be < 5 W and no clouds will be produced. If I let go and press the button again, it'll start working and show a power draw of 30-65 W.

What could be wrong?

Thanks
 
dimmusp,

GoldenBud

Well-known Member
Messages
66
I got a problem with my second handed TUBOx . one of the wires connected to the 510 connector going out sometimes . it's not well glued, and i think i also pulled the cable abit harder than usual is kinda my fault too...:whoa: . i insert the cable inside and it works perfectly well , but comes out from time to time (Atomizer short error) how can I re-glue it? which glue is suitable to this? I'm not sure if it's the + or the - .
for now it works well as usual, i'm also more careful with the cables between the 510 to the heater!

thanks alot in advance people.
 
Last edited:
GoldenBud,

MikeRotchHertz

New Member
Messages
12
One of mine comes loose and I was thinking of soldering it instead of glue for a better connection. I just wanted to wait and ask @funkyjunky first because I don't want to void anything. The fact that the 510 is not glued down but has an o ring makes me think it's supposed to be accessible. Once I push it in place I try not to twist it without twisting the whole connection and it stays in place, but solder would be preferred.
 
MikeRotchHertz,

MikeRotchHertz

New Member
Messages
12
Also, I just picked up this perfect sized piece for attaching the mod too. Makes it super convenient and secure enough to not be paranoid about breaking it. I like the look of the tetra P80s, but it really is hard to beat the versatility of the TETRAx.
 

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funkyjunky

lamart.ch
Manufacturer
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20
hmmm....

@funkyjunky I've noticed that my TETRAx sometimes doesn't heat up when it should.

For example, I'll set it to Cruise mode and it will show silly temperatures that fluctuate a lot (e.g., 359C, 303 C, 505C, etc.) and the power stays at 0.9 W or so. You can tell it's not just the display because the vapor won't feel hot enough and no visible clouds are produced.

I get better results using it on-demand (pressing the button so if shows "PUFF") , but even then I sometimes have to release and press the button again for it to really heat. Otherwise it might say it's near the target temperature (e.g., 195 C) but the power will be < 5 W and no clouds will be produced. If I let go and press the button again, it'll start working and show a power draw of 30-65 W.

What could be wrong?

Thanks
the too high temperatures point to a connection issue somewhere. it can be the mod, the two center pins connecting, the 510 connector of tetrax or the heater itself. unfortunately if increasing the resistance does not solve this issue for good the unit needs to come back to me for inspection and replacement of whats faulty.

I got a problem with my second handed TUBOx . one of the wires connected to the 510 connector going out sometimes . it's not well glued, and i think i also pulled the cable abit harder than usual is kinda my fault too...:whoa: . i insert the cable inside and it works perfectly well , but comes out from time to time (Atomizer short error) how can I re-glue it? which glue is suitable to this? I'm not sure if it's the + or the - .
for now it works well as usual, i'm also more careful with the cables between the 510 to the heater!

thanks alot in advance people.
this part is normally pressure fit into the base and should stay put. using glue would make the problem worse in my opinion as it can act as an insulator and will influence resistance. unless you can find electical conducting glue i dont recommend this route. i am afraid that i need it back to solder the pin to the base or replace it.

One of mine comes loose and I was thinking of soldering it instead of glue for a better connection. I just wanted to wait and ask @funkyjunky first because I don't want to void anything. The fact that the 510 is not glued down but has an o ring makes me think it's supposed to be accessible. Once I push it in place I try not to twist it without twisting the whole connection and it stays in place, but solder would be preferred.
see above.
the housing is indeed designed to spin so it can align with the mod. apparently the outer pin is not attached properly on some atomizer bases. soldering is a difficult task as it needs a lot of heat there. ill gladly repair it but you need to send it to me unfortunately.
 
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GoldenBud

Well-known Member
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66
this part is normally pressure fit into the base and should stay put. using glue would make the problem worse in my opinion as it can act as an insulator and will influence resistance. unless you can find electical conducting glue i dont recommend this route. i am afraid that i need it back to solder the pin to the base or replace it.
Ok, I will keep in touch. Won't glue. I inserted it with pressure and for now it works, but if it persists i'll send it to you man.
@MikeRotchHertz thanks for your answer too.
 
GoldenBud,

MikeRotchHertz

New Member
Messages
12
see above.
the housing is indeed designed to spin so it can align with the mod. apparently the outer pin is not attached properly on some atomizer bases. soldering is a difficult task as it needs a lot of heat there. ill gladly repair it but you need to send it to me unfortunately.
[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I just don't think I can do that. I think I'd have separation anxiety 😄

But if you say soldering is a good solution, I am competent enough and have a good enough heating station I think I'll try to solder it myself next time I have the problem and go under the hood.
 
MikeRotchHertz,
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